There are many restaurants in Manchester that try to transport us with a combination of compelling food and spectacularly immersive surrounds. Few do it as well as Dishoom. Set at Manchester Hall, the stunning city centre former-freemason’s hangout built in 1929, designed by Percy Scott, the imposing exterior sets the tone for what’s inside, with diners seated at tables and booths within a wood and stained glass window-clad interior. Walls filled with artefacts inspired by the Irani cafes that sprang up in Bombay during the 19th Century, it’s classic, colonial, yet deceptively timeless.
In 2024, Dishoom actioned its biggest changes since the group launched at London’s Covent Garden circa 2010, the result of founders Shamil and Kari Thakrar hitting the streets of modern day Mumbai to sample more than 650 dishes in what sounds like a fantasy foodie trip. Months of development have led to several new recipes being added, such as Goan monkfish curry, golden fried fish amritsari, a chunkier pau bhaji than previously served, the new keema pau, which takes its lead from Bombay’s world famous Olympia Cafe, established 1918. The there’s the updated chole puri halwa — now using overnight-soaked chickpeas and giant puri for a Desi breakfast to remember.
This is before we come to Makhmali paneer, grilled greens, chota papad with mango chutney, chicken & mango salad, coconutty fruit crumble and kala khatta. The list could go on, but Dishoom has always had a great reputation for drinks, not just bites, so let’s move forward. 2024 introduced an impressive 23 cocktails to the list, including Bombay bellini, which pairs sparkling wine with juicy mango, orange bitters and ice. And the India Gimlet — London dry gin, shaken with Rose’s Lime and celery bitters, finished with fresh dill. A number of ‘teetotal tipples’ are also available, ranging from the no permit collins of sparkling Darjeeling green tea, smoky Lapsang, Kingfisher 0% lager, lemon and maple syrup, to the Marine Drive spritz — a sunset tonic lengthened with citrusy Crossip non-alcoholic spirit, cabernet rosé grape juice and soda.